Your bike's axle is defined by four facts, not just one. First, the type: quick release (QR, a skewer with a lever in open dropouts) or thru-axle (a thick axle that threads into the frame in closed dropouts). Second, the hub width: front 100 or 110 mm; rear 135, 142, 148 (Boost) or 157 (Super Boost). Third, the diameter: 9 mm (QR) or 12/15 mm (thru-axle). Fourth, the thread pitch of the thru-axle, which varies by brand. With those four you nail the wheel and axle.
Buying a wheel or axle without these four facts is a lottery. Here's the exact order to identify yours.
Look at the dropout first: if the wheel comes off by flipping a lever without unthreading anything, it's quick release; if you have to remove an axle that threads in, it's a thru-axle. Then measure the width between dropouts (100/110 front, 135/142/148/157 rear), the axle diameter (9 mm QR, 12 or 15 mm thru) and, if thru, the thread pitch. Hub width alone isn't enough: two 148 mm frames can need axles of different length and thread.
A wheel fits if its hub width exactly matches your frame/fork and the retention system is the same (QR or thru-axle). A thru-axle frame won't take a quick-release wheel and vice versa, except convertible hubs with swappable endcaps. Before buying, confirm all four facts.
If you don't know which axle, width or thread your frame uses, send us the case. Real diagnosis, nothing to sell you. Message us on WhatsApp
Check the dropout: if the wheel releases with a lever without unthreading anything, it's quick release. If you remove an axle that threads into the frame, it's a thru-axle.
No. Two frames of the same width (e.g. 148 mm) can need axles of different total length and thread pitch. Always measure the original axle.
Measure between the inner faces of the dropouts: front is usually 100 or 110 mm; rear 135, 142, 148 or 157 mm.